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The Man & Jewelry

September 20, 2011 by

For a man wearing a suit the right jewelry can upgrade your look from smart to brilliant. At the same time, ostentatious ‘bling-bling’ is distracting and unattractive; men’s jewelry should always be subtle. The watch passes the test by virtue of its functionality; cufflinks and tie clips earn provisional legitimacy on the same grounds. The wedding band is respected for what it represents, and other rings may be subtle enough to work to a man’s advantage in the right setting. Piercings have featured prominently in so many counter-culture movements, from pirates to camp to punk rock, that they immediately arouse negative reactions from many. If you are going to wear an eyebrow stud with a suit, the suit had better fit you like your own skin if you don’t want to be remembered as ‘the guy with the eyebrow ring.’

A general rule of dressing says to match metal to metal. That means that if your belt buckle is silver, for instance, so should be your cuff links, tie clip, and anything else shiny you wear. As with all things, this is a general guideline, not a hard and fast rule: a man with a gold wedding ring can wear silver cuff links if he likes, and one who wears an heirloom silver watch is free to wear brass buckles. Another rule says not to wear gold after dark (nor button-down collars, nor brown shoes, for that matter). This is good to keep in mind when dressing for the night-life, and again, it is a good suggestion rather than a cardinal law.

Men’s Watches – A Guide to Wearing a Timepiece
The watch is one of those elements of dress by which some people will choose to define you. The gaudy, bejeweled timepieces that bulge from the French cuffs of investment bankers certainly have their place, as do the thin, un-numbered dress watches seen on gallery curators’ wrists. Some men have a treasured timepiece that they wear exclusively for decades; others own several watches, for different occasions or simply for day-to-day variety. The latter requires more effort for the American man, though, who must reset all his clocks twice a year, and for men who’s work or fancy require them to know the time to the exact second.

As with most things, the simpler a watch, the more formal. When one dons a tuxedo or tailcoat, tradition decrees that one not wear a watch at all, as keeping track of time isn’t something we associate with partying. Those few whose professions still demand rigid formality in dress, such as politicians and trial lawyers, ought to wear classy timepieces free of jewels, moving bezels, excess dials, and the like. Gold and silver are equally suitable, as are metal and leather bands. For those whose positions grant more flexibility, any decent watch will do; take advantage of this opportunity for personal expression and find something that’s really you.

Cufflinks
When you choose to wear French cuffs on a dress shirt, you have the opportunity to wear cufflinks. Cufflinks come in many styles, of gold, silver, gunmetal, and brass, with all variety of precious stones and other embellishments. When you select them for purchase or wear, know that people will examine them closely and make a decision about the wearer based on them – are they bold, classic, gaudy, or novel – and more importantly, do you want to be perceived as this. Really think about what they say about you, and make sure it aligns with how you seek to present yourself. Our advice is to stay with simple classic designs or with cufflinks that have some type of sentimental value; avoid the diamond studded pink Playboy rabbit links unless you are Hugh Hefner.

Tie Accessories
A tie clip will keep your tie from flying over your shoulder on a windy street while evoking an on-the-go lifestyle that requires such assistance. A simple stripe of gold, silver, or some other metal is acceptably classy; anything more appears gaudy. Tie clips look best worn at an angle to counteract the rigidity they connote for some. A tie chain works much the same as a tie clip, but instead of a fixed bar holding your tie in place you have a drooping chain of silver or gold. Lastly there is the tie tack; it looks something like a stud earring with an inch of fine chain extending from the back. One sticks it through the center of the tie and then attaches the chain to a button hole. Since it requires poking a hole in the tie and thus damaging it, we do not recommend it’s usage.

Rings
Unlike other pieces of jewelry, a man does not have a rotation of wedding rings to be coordinated with the day’s other jewelry. A man should be advised that a plain band, of gold, silver, or platinum, is the most stylish choice available. If you are already married and have something more ostentatious on your finger, do not fret, few people notice it and no one will think less of you for it. Besides a wedding ring, other rings of symbolic value may have a place on the well dressed hand. A class or fraternal ring is seen on many stylish men’s hands. Rings worn entirely for their own sake are somewhat dubious however, since most contemporary societies frown upon such blatant displays of wealth. If you are in a position where looking rich works to your advantage, though, a ring embedded with precious stones can accomplish this within the boundaries of professional attire.

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Sean Combs – A modern American interpretation of classic style

September 20, 2011 by

10 years ago I would not have rated Sean Combs very high on a list of well dressed men. Today, I find his modern approach to classic style not only refreshing but original and enduring enough to rank him in the company of fashion gurus such as Ralf Lauren and Jean Lacoste.

A recent article quoted him as saying

“I can’t live without a fine tailored suit. That’s what will separate me in the end. I want to be timeless and elegant. I want my picture in the books next to Sinatra and Quincy Jones. I can do the ghetto thing all day. I can be on a yacht in the South of France with my shirt off wearing a big diamond chain, you know what I mean? I definitely know how to do that! But at the end of the day I feel most relaxed in a custom-tailored tux.”

Here is the original article on him and his Sean John line.

Although Sean Combs claims that his goals in the men’s fashion world have been achieved, I feel there is still so much work to be done when it comes to the average man understanding proper fit, classic style, and the right fabrics for his complexion. Most men today walk through their lives in clothing that neither compliments nor enhances any part of their natural style….. which although a shame, does give a leg up to the man who takes the time to realize his appearance is just as important as his education/achievements. You doubt this? As open minded as we try to be in this modern age, we still judge people by their looks.

I would love to see Sean Combs immortalize himself with some literature focusing on classic style with a modern American twist…..something to connect the classic styles of yesterday with the modern ideas of fashion.

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Mens Pocket Squares – Folding, Fluting, and Finesse

September 20, 2011 by

The art of the dress handkerchief doesn’t end with selecting color, pattern, and fabric. Equally important is the way in which the pocket square is worn. A quality square can appear unbecoming if it is improperly handled and haphazardly stuffed into the pocket. That isn’t to say that the handkerchief must appear excessively arranged. Many of the finest examples have a casual, fluff-like appearance. All well worn pocket handkerchiefs, however, have one thing in common: the wearer knew what he wanted, arranged the handkerchief so, and then wore it as a subtle display of his fashion prowess.

Dress handkerchiefs can be arranged in an infinite variety of ways; for simplicity’s sake only the three basic types of folds are covered here: squared, fluted, and pointed.

The Square Fold
The square, sometimes called the Presidential or the TV fold, is the simplest and most understated of the folds. In modern times, it is also one of the least often seen. This fold is very similar to the standard square fold of the for-use handkerchief, except that it must be somewhat longer and narrower in order to fit into the pocket and remain visible. The precise length and width will depend on the pocket in question as well as the wearer’s preference, but it is generally in the area of 5? – 6? long and 3? – 3½” wide. If the handkerchief is made of linen or cotton, it should be lightly starched to provide a crisp look; if it is made of silk, it should not be starched, but should be folded so the hand-rolled edges are visible.

To create a square fold, one starts with the handkerchief completely unfolded on a flat surface. Begin by folding it in half so that it is now the same width but half the length. Be sure to crease the edge of the fold, and each fold to come. Next, fold in half again, so that it once again becomes a square, one-fourth of its original size. Finally, fold in half one more time, so it becomes half as wide as it is long. This is then inserted into the jacket pocket with between ½” and 1? of the handkerchief visible.

The finished product can be inserted in many different ways: tilted diagonally is a popular style. Such details are up to the wearer, and it is best to try several options at first to find ones preference.

The Flute or Puff
The next style is the flute, sometimes called the balloon or puff. This style is quite possibly the easiest to create, but the hardest to perfect. With the handkerchief open and on a flat surface, pinch it from the middle and lift it up. With the other hand, create a ring with the thumb and index finger around the top of the handkerchief, right below the pinch, and pull downwards, forming a column or “flute.” Fold so that about ? of the fabric is on the “flute” end, ? on the “point” end, and tuck into the pocket, so that 1? to 1½” remains visible. If necessary, adjust to fill the width of the pocket; should the flute be too tall or too short, re-flute, folding as needed to achieve the desired size.

Pointed Fold
The final style, the points, is the opposite of the flute, and is created exactly the same way. However, instead of folding so that the flute is the longer end, fold so that the points are the longer end, and then insert. Adjust as necessary to fill the width of the pocket, and to keep the points from clustering too tightly. This style may require a linen or cotton handkerchief to be starched somewhat more, in order for the points to remain upright. A more disarranged appearance can be achieved by shaking the handkerchief around after pinching the middle, just before creating the flute.

Finally remember that each fold has its own distinct personality, conveying different messages about the wearer to those he meets. The best approach to finding ones own preferred style is to try different variations and choose the one that best compliments your personal style.

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The Pocket Square: Colors and Patterns

September 20, 2011 by

Pocket squares come in a variety of colors and patterns. These are appropriate to most ensembles, and should be chosen to contrast with the shirt and tie while still being set off against the color of the jacket. What one should look for in a pocket square is coordinated contrast. That is to say, a combination of pattern and fabric that is different than the suit, shirt, and tie, but not so unlike as to clash.

Solid White Handkerchiefs – Linen and Cotton
Perhaps the most classic dress handkerchief is the solid white square, made of linen or cotton. Depending on the chosen fold, it may be lightly starched to provide body. The white square is acceptable for almost any ensemble but looks particularly good with dark, conservative suits where its crisp clean appearance is most pronounced.

Silk Handkerchiefs
Silk squares are what a gentleman is most likely to encounter in the department store; many have dozens of options on display. These handkerchiefs come in nearly every color and pattern imaginable, and offer far more opportunity to make a bold and distinctive statement. By the same token, these are also the handkerchiefs that produce much of the stress associated with wearing a square, as the variety of colors and patterns presents what can seem a daunting choice, though that need not be the case. One particular detail to note when choosing a silk square are hand-rolled edges; these are a sign of quality and attention to detail and should be present on a well-made square.

Remember when selecting the type of fabric for a dress handkerchief, the fabric of the jacket and tie should be considered. Mix silk squares with heavier tie fabrics, and more textured handkerchiefs with smooth ties is an excellent way to add contrast, while silk squares against a rough jacket like tweed is particularly distinctive. Wool suits, the most common option, are equally at home with linen or silk, as are silk ties – indeed, the variety of patterns available in silk may require a silk square for some ensembles.

Handkerchief Patterns
In choosing pattern for a square, one should look to the most brightly colored or patterned item in the ensemble. In most cases, this will be the tie, though should it be the shirt, or even in some cases the suit itself, that element should be given focus. One has nearly every color and pattern to choose from, though this will obviously be constrained by the examples available in ones wardrobe. With solid ensembles, patterns are particularly distinctive, and while solid squares may seem a safer choice for patterned ties, a contrasting patterned square provides a very elegant look.

Handkerchief Color
As for color, it’s best to determine the base color for whatever item is being matched then opt for a complementing color. Also, it is best not to match the square directly to a prominent color; instead, match it to a secondary color as an accent. As with everything else in classic style, the choice of color should also be mindful of the occasion; though it is only a few inches of visible material, a boldly colored square might well be out of place at a funeral or wedding.

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Dress Shoes – Different types and various levels of formality

September 20, 2011 by

Different Types of Dress Shoes

Dress shoes come in many styles, and each has its place. The particular constructions and colors one chooses are surely a matter of personal style. Nonetheless, there are a few conventions one should keep in mind when selecting shoes for purchase, or deciding which pair to don on a particular day. In general, the sleeker the shoe, the more formal; black is generally more formal than brown. Lace-ups rank ahead of slip-ons, and closed lacing is a notch above open lacing. (In the closed lacing construction, the sides of the shoe emerge from the top side by side and fan slightly outward to form a V where the laces tie them together. A shoe with open lacing has separate side pieces folded over the tongue to meet at the center). Broguing–rows or patterns of perforations–take shoes down in formality, the more so the more there are.

The Oxford Dress Shoe
The gold standard of dress shoes, the Oxford features round toes, usually with a cap, and closed lacing. Plain cap-toe Oxfords are the most formal option for business wear, and can do double-duty as formal shoes.  Oxfords with broguing along the cap’s edge, or trimming the uppers, are still formal enough for a worsted wool suit; ‘full brogues’ are more appropriate with tweed or flannel. If you own one pair of dress shoes, they should be black Oxfords; Allen-Edmonds Park Avenue’s, made in the United States, are an irreproachable selection and well worth their price.

The Wingtip Dress Shoe
The wing-tip, with a brogued cap coming to a point at the center of the top curving back and down along the sides, is suit-level in black and business casual in brown. In the United States, it is associated by many with Ronald Reagan and the eighties in general, and in any country it is going to draw some attention to itself. This is not necessarily a bad thing, of course, but it does reduce the shoe’s potential for frequent wear: while you might wear the same pair of brown Oxford’s three days a week without anyone noticing, the man who wears wing-tips more than weekly risks having them integrated into his reputation.

The Derby and Blucher
The derby is similar in shape to the Oxford, but bears open lacing. It is still appropriate for wear with a suit, and supports a khakis-and-blazer look more naturally than the Oxford. The blucher is a slightly sleeker open-laced shoe of similar versatility. Plain or with a brogued cap, these dress shoes will match a suit in formality; with more decoration they carry a blazer well. In suede, rather than smooth leather, these are among the best shoes to wear with jeans or khakis.

Boots
Dress boots bring some ruggedness to dress footwear, making them a worthy option in the winter. In addition, their slip on and off feature along with superior comfort make them a favorite among travelers and those not requiring the formality of the oxford. In the same family, but of a more regional nature, is the cowboy boot. Although men like former Texas congressional representative Charlie Wilson could pull this off, most men might want to skip on this unless they are an oil magnate.

Loafer and Monkstrap
Slip-on shoes are casual by nature. Those appropriate for business casual wear include bit loafers, with a mettle link across the middle; monkstraps, with a buckle closure; and penny loafers, with a slotted leather band across the top. Tassel loafers, which are exactly what they sound like, are accepted as business formal in some circles while relegated to weekend wear in others.

White Bucks
White bucks are Oxfords made of white buckskin, a rough leather than in reality is not exactly white. They are the traditional companion to the seersucker suit, and equally compliment such summer fabrics as tan gabardine and white linen. Thus, they could be called professional between Memorial Day and Labor Day, or during whatever one considers summer.

Black Tie Dress Shoes
Patent leather Oxfords are the most formal of men’s shoes; they are standard with a tuxedo, and clash with most everything else. Opera pumps, shiny black slippers with a bow on top, are another option for formal wear.

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How to choose a Tailor

September 20, 2011 by

How to choose a Tailor

Picking out a tailor used to be simple; you either went with the tailor who had been servicing your father or you headed to the experienced suit salesman who would get the right introduction.  Nowadays regrettably, the job is more arduous – expert tailors are tough to come by, and the ordinary menswear salesman does not hold the knowledge to guide you in the proper direction.  In this article, I outfit you with the tools to determine a good men’s tailor whose services can transform you and your clothing.

The below steps are in order of action to be taken when searching for a tailor, and they are intended to be applied in concurrence with each other.  The 1st point is the most crucial, and shouldn’t be passed over.

1.    Educate Yourself
Prior to you talking with a tailor or seamstress, you want to possess a grounding in the fundamentals of men’s style.  The most arduous thing for most men to do is to find a couple of hrs to sit and learn about suits, shirts, and other menswear; yet most gentlemen find once they begin studying the material they become captivated.  Learning about the intricacies of quality menswear you begin noting men’s clothing particulars you never considered before; you pay attention to the fit of suit jackets, working sleeve buttonholes, and the break along a pair of pants.

Stepping into the universe of tailoring, you will realise just how crucial your clothing is in broadcasting messages about who you are.  Most folks you go past daily know you solely by the clothing you have on; your appearance is the only way they can make any sense of who you are and what you do in this world.  The suit, shirt, and tie combination you put on in the morning covers up ninety percent of your body, and before you speak this garment combination declares who you are and indicates to other people whether or not you merit attention.

To build a firm base in the fundamentals of men’s style, I recommend reading any book by Alan Flusser, Nicholas Antongiavanni’s “The Suit”, or Bernhard Roetzel’s “Gentleman”.  An extraordinary internet resource is A Tailored Suit’s Style Guide, a trove of men’s style articles. Once you have a foundation, you ought then to then interact with experienced people at places like Style Forum, an internet community of men’s clothing partisans.  When you find you can talk the tongue of bespoke menswear, you’re ready to begin questioning tailors.

2.    Tailor Recommendations
Be heedful here – most gentlemen are not discriminating in picking out their tailor, and remain with their current tailor just because they are oblivious of a better alternative.  Aggregated with the reality most men do not understand what proper fit is, it’s very possible that a tailor who gets high praise only does so because of the cluelessness of his patrons.  Don’t presume since somebody addresses themselves as a tailor or seamstress that they know anything about men’s style or can evaluate proper fit.

Conduct a critical look at your acquaintances – who amongst them is a natty dresser?  These are the folks you would like to ask for tailor recommendations.  You’ll be able to widen your search by asking women also, only be careful.  The manner garments fit on an adult male vs. the way they should fit on a woman are very different.  A skilled woman’s tailor doesn’t necessarily possess the correct skills to tailor men’s clothing.

3.    A Tailor’s Communication Skills – does this tailor listen and understand you?
You now have a list of tailors – now you should start speaking with them.  You will be able to do this over the telephone or e-mail; your goal is to determine if this is a individual you are able to work with.  Do they have superior communication skills?  Do they really listen to you, or are they attempting to drive in a direction you know you do not need to go down?  Do they have time to speak, or are they in a hurry?  To be fair, you should not hold the last one against a tailor if you call up their workplace out of the blue – however any master tailor ought to be willing to put aside twenty minutes to talk with a prospective customer at a determined time within a few days of phoning.

You would like to work with a tailor whom you feel confident in – this decision is very personal and ought to be based off the tailor’s knowledge and communication skills – ideally you encounter a tailor with solid skills in both arenas.  Regrettably, a combination of the 2 in a tailor is uncommon except in bigger urban centers.  You could find a very skilled tailor, but if he doesn’t understand you or the tailor decides he should ignore your wants and execute what he believes is correct, both you and the tailor are going to be frustrated.  Communicating is critical, and ensuring that both sides clearly understand and respect one another is important to a long term partnership.

4.    When is the Tailor satisfied?
There’s one answer here; the tailor shouldn’t be content until you’re satisfied.  This does not imply that a accomplished tailor or seamstress always gives you what you wish or doesn’t make errors – nay, a tailor really worth retaining is one who learns what your idea of the ideal fit is and perpetually works to accomplish this.

5.    Does the Tailor understand style?  Does the tailor understand timeless fashion?
I brought this up earlier, but don’t presume a tailor or seamstress understands classic men’s style.  While a lot of accomplished tailors are experts at constructing anything you are able to conceive of, their eye for what colour material or style of jacket suits a man is oftentimes inconsistent with reality.  Culture differences could also play a factor here, because a lot of the best tailors nowadays are native Chinese, Thai, or Indian – what worked for tailors in Mumbai in 1970 might not be practical nowadays.  With your base in classic men’s style (see point 1), you ought to be able to figure out quickly if the tailor possess an eye for timeless fashion.

6.    Samples of the Tailor’s work – Can the tailor present you his custom suits and tailored shirts?
Pictures, example pieces, alteration miracles – you’re seeking samplings of their work that validates the tailor’s claims of greatness.  If the overall garment appears fine, spend a couple of minutes analyzing the details – does the stitching look firm and neat, is the build and silhouette something you want in your clothing.  Be weary of a tailor who does not have anything to display or pleased clients to refer you to.

7.    Tailoring turnaround times?  Is the tailor accessible?
A lot of the better tailors out there are really active folks.  They accept more work than they can handle, and alas wait times of more than a month  for a expert tailor’s time are not unheard of.  Ideally you want a tailor who can attend to your wants quickly, particularly when you call for a quick fix before an crucial appointment.  Be direct about your needs here, as that most tailors will accommodate emergencies aware it creates loyalty and good will.

Notice I did not bring up cost when picking out a tailor - this is the least significant factor and should be a small consideration even for those tight on money.  You need to find a good tailor who can assist you to realize your vision of the perfect tailored fit.  Saving 20 bucks on a cheaper tailor and not getting what you desire is a waste of money – spend a bit more and getting precisely what you envisioned by employing the skills of a master tailor – it’s always worth it.

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The Importance of Proportion

September 20, 2011 by

The Importance of Proportion in Classic Men’s Clothing

The gentleman who gives attention to proportion in his apparel always looks good. Alas, this detail is sadly under valued nowadays; it is rare to discover an adult male whose manner is understated elegance, the sort of gentleman who folks feel is always well dressed without knowing why. Most apparel sold in shops is available in just a few standard sizes, and are built according to the fashion of their day. It is true that with suitable tailoring, many gentlemen can get a decent fit out of a retail suit or other garment, but with a suit particularly there are a lot opportunities for customization that one misses out on them when buying off the rack. In retail clothing, important particulars like gorge height, closure, button position, and lapel width are determined by the impulses of fashion instead of the needs of a wearer’s unique physical structure.

Nearly all clothes are cut for a theoretical fashion model, a one in a hundred human who does not exist. Knowing this, it is no surprise that most men wear suits that do not flatter them. Most of us would look better in clothing built to our bodies, as that the right cuts and proportions can enhance any appearance. The best dressers knew this. Douglas Fairbanks Jr. had his jacket shoulders built out to offset his rather large head; Gary Cooper had his lapels cut to end in a low gorge which breaking up his height. Just look at modern day examples such as George Clooney, Sean Combs, and Tom Brady; these men wear menswear that compliments their natural strengths. It is true that certain body shapes clash with certain articles of clothing, but by no means does one’s body type confine him to a particular style. An important step in dressing well is finding the clothing proportions that work for you and then ensuring those proportion standards are met in every article of clothing you purchase.

The proper proportions on a jacket are critical to yield a natural and attractive visage. If a man’s head is especially wide, wider shoulders will frame his noggin to great success. A narrow face does better with sloping shoulders, while a large round face should ensure it is surrounded by enough material in the shoulders to make it look normal in size. Short men look best with a high-gorge configuration, while a low gorge balances a tall man. Also the width of a man’s lapels should be in proportion to his torso; if not they will accentuate his girth or lankiness to ill effect. And whatever your size, your jacket’s length should be such that it ends at your thumb’s knuckle when you stand with arms relaxed at your sides, and the ends of your sleeves should line up with the ends of your arms where your hands begin.

The shirt has rules of its own. The shirt collar size and shape should be selected based off of the face of the man wearing it. Collars types such as straight points tend to elongate the face; a wise selection for the round faced man but not a good choice for the man who has a long face. Most men wear collars that are too small, which is a shame as that the whole purpose of a shirt collar is to frame the face by properly drawing the eyes to it. Cuffs should gently clasp around the wrist, with anywhere from three quarters to a full two inches of room permissible.

Many trends in clothing consist of breaking the rules of proportion. Every day designers blast the public with their images of attractive models striking enviable poses and clothed in their latest offerings. By objective standards, these may be too loose or too tight, excessively short or top-heavy, or otherwise unbalanced. Models have jobs because they look good in anything, but most of us are not so lucky. Trendy designer clothes only look good because they evoke the beautiful people on billboards and magazines. When tastes change, in a few years or a single season, those who paid full price for designer wares at the height of their fleeting glory are left with expensive clothes that look slightly ridiculous. How much wiser is the man who buys clothes that are right for him, and wears them confidently knowing his style transcends the pettiness of fleeting fashion.

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Why purchase extra trousers and matching stripes on men’s suits and dress shirts

September 20, 2011 by

Question

Why Should I purchase an extra pair of trousers with my suit?

Answer

I always recommend purchasing an extra pair of trousers with a custom suit. My reasoning is

 

  1. The fabric from which the suit is cut is unique and likely to be discontinued by the mill eventually. If you tear the trousers/wear them out, you no longer have matching trousers for your jacket (typically men wear out their trousers 2-3 times faster than the jacket…..and a bespoke suit should give you 15+ years of wear depending on use).
  2. An extra pair of trousers allows you to change the style of the suit by changing the style of the trousers. Example, non-pleated flat front are less formal and can be worn with a nice dress shirt/no tie, and the jacket for one look vs. pleated trousers/dress shirt/tie and jacket for another look. More versatility.
  3. The cost is less to the tailor, and you should be able to receive some discount for this additional purchase.

Question

Should the stripes on a men’s suit or dress shirt match?

Answer

As for matching pin stripes, I am of the school that they should match. A lot of off the rack men’s suits do not do this as that it costs more money – it does require paying more attention to detail and uses more fabric – but it’s a small detail that isn’t looked over by the discriminating eye.

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