The Definition of Extraordinary Customer Service at A Tailored Suit

Extraordinary Customer Service – we use this term a lot, but doesn’t everybody claim to offer this type of attention. What do we mean by this and why does it matter?

Let me explain in five simple parts:

  1. A Tailored Suit genuinely cares about each and every client’s order – as a small company, we have chosen to avoid high volume sales and instead concentrate on a manageable number of clients whom we can serve very well. Every order that comes our way is personally screened by a fashion expert, and a unique garment is designed based on the client’s body type and needs. As that so much time and effort goes into every piece of clothing, you can bet that we are on pins and needles until we get feedback from the client (in fact, we call to ask about your satisfaction for our sake almost as much as yours!).
  2. A Tailored Suit’s staff is knowledgeable about custom menswear – Every one on our staff is well read and has had practice with designing and constructing quality menswear. We have an in house library and reading list, and routinely we spend a part of the work day debating the views of style icons such as Carey Grant, Sean Combs, The Duke of Windsor, and Alan Flusser. We love to speak with clients during style consultations, and encourage anyone with a question about menswear to give us a call at 1-800-340-7345.
  3. A Tailored Suit does whatever it takes to make its clients happy – occasionally we have clients with special needs, and we love it because this where we shine. How many other menswear companies will help you research reputable tailors in China, deliver your clothing to multiple locations so that you can pack light, purchase small incidentals on your behalf to save you time, and interview local tailors so that you can have an alteration made with confidence. We have done all this and more for our clients.
  4. A Tailored Suit does not push sales down your throat– we aren’t a charity, but we do believe the quality and service we provide is enough to sell itself. We try to sell you something you don’t need, and take pride in helping our clients find value.
  5. The team at A Tailored Suit make themselves available – although we can’t always pick up the phone, we do return every call and email in a timely manner. And this response is personal, always from a real human being and always with a sincere desire to help you.

From an Idea to a Start-up with Wings

A little over a year ago A Tailored Suit was little more than an idea – a answer to a problem we saw in the custom clothing market but still very far from being a living, breathing company.
Today (and actually since this last summer) we are open to the public and are proud to say

Gray Flannel Trousers – The Classic Companion for Any Sports Coat

Pants are not the focal point of a man’s outfit; rather, their job is to draw the eye upward to your jacket or downward to your shoes, perhaps subtly flattering your legs. Additionally, since the legs move so much, a pattern that appears elegant on the torso becomes jarring below. It is no wonder, therefore, that virtually all men’s pants sold today are solids.

Gray, that most neutral of colors, does the job best. Whoever wears a sport coat, wherever and however he wears it, cannot go wrong pairing it with gray flannels. This wonderful fabric is made from Merino wool, and comfortably warm in fall, winter and spring. Softer than worsted, it does not hold a crease with the same rigidity as its more formal cousin. This makes it the ideal compliment to the sport coat, given the latter’s heritage as dignified causal wear.

Just as the gray suit looks good with any shirt and tie, so do gray trousers provide a sure footing for any sport coat ensemble. They work with brown or black shoes, from oxfords to loafers (although most jackets have a slightly narrower range). There is no color or pattern of shirt, tie, or jacket with which it clashes. That means that once you have picked out a combination of these three that compliment each other well, you’re done! Step into your gray flannels and you are guaranteed a harmonious outfit. This does not imply that gray flannels are an easy way out of the sometimes difficult task of color and pattern matching. Indeed, Fred Astaire, one of the best dressed men of the twentieth century and one renowned for his daring agility in mixing fabrics, wore gray flannel trousers more often than not. There’s plenty of room to be interesting above the waist and below the ankles.

Color aside, the texture of flannel is dressy enough for a blazer and tie while maintaining a long reach down the formality spectrum. With a turtleneck in your favorite color, they’re comfortable and casual, perfect for a Fall Saturday morning at home. When it comes time to go out, you can don any jacket in your closet without worrying about whether it will match your bottoms. Herein lies another of these pants’ advantages: They look just as good without a jacket as they do with one, allowing you to easily adjust the formality of your attire during the day without having to change.

Any sport coat will look good with a variety of pants. Better, though, that you own a variety of sport coats, and keep the pants simple and functional. Gray flannels go brilliantly with any jacket, and without compromising its versatility or allure. They will last for years, and like the classic navy blazer, they will never go out of style.

Choosing Men’s Suits – A Focus on Color

Most men choose a suit’s color based off of two factors. 1) The salesman says the color looks good and 2) it looks like a suit he has purchased in the past. The problem here is that most men do not know what colors compliment their complexion and instead of choosing a color that enhances their looks, they choose a color that simply fits in.  The result is a closet full of suits made from the wrong fabric

The purpose of this article is to open your eyes to the world of men’s suit colors and encourage you to choose a fabric that compliments your individual style.

The Triad: Navy Blue, Black and Charcoal Gray

These three colors dominate the men’s suit industry, and for good reason. Most men are complimented by one or more of these dark colors. Dark suits have the ability to seamlessly transition from business to pleasure, in addition to a slimming effect of the silhouette. Let us talk about each color quickly

Navy Blue

Navy blues strength lies in its sheer dominance. Most men own at least one, and if you have ever walked into a business meeting you can be sure more than half the men will be clad in one. But this is its chief weakness; how can you stand out when 90% of your body looks exactly the same as over 50% of the room. We tend to forget that our clothing sends off strong signals, and if you want to be anything but average you want to present yourself as such, not always try to blend in. In addition, those with a very light complexion need to pair navy blue with rich colored shirts; a white or ice blue shirt will drain the color right from their face. Finally, young men are advised to avoid this color as that it has a habit off accentuating youth.

Black

A more difficult color to wear, it is perceived by many as the choice for funerals and weddings. No argument there; however, it is so much more for the man with the right complexion. No other color has such a slimming effect, and depending on the dress shirt it can go from regular office wear to drinks with friends at the hippest nightclubs in New York. The key to wearing black is being a high contrast individual, a man with dark hair with light to medium colored skin. The effect is a properly framed face to where all the attention is drawn.

Charcoal Gray

Charcoal gray suits projects an image of authority, stability, and professionalism. It is an excellent choice for a first suit, especially for young men as that it does accentuate youth (unlike Navy Blue). Although clearly lighter than black or navy blue when placed side by side, it nonetheless is just as acceptable at all business functions and interview situations. Possibly the most versatile color, it looks good with almost any colored shirt imaginable.

 

Colors more men should consider.

Brown

Brown ranges from a light through a deep chocolate hue. Many men look their best in earth-tones, making the brown suit an important part of their wardrobe; it is also a popular color for causal options including tweed suits and sports jackets. One caveat: until the early 1980s, brown was not considered a color for business (we can thank Ronald Reagan for their return). While the times have changed there are still some members of the old guard who continue to hold to the old rule that brown does not belong in town. This should not dissuade the well-dressed gentleman from wearing brown with confidence, but it is important to be aware.

Tan

The navy suit for warm weather, tan is an excellent choice. Less flashy than white, it none the less commands attention and can set you apart from the crowd while keeping you cool. If you live in a cold weather city, a tan suit is ideal for spring and summer while in a warmer climate it is appropriate year round. The tan suit pairs well with white, light blue, or any pale pastel shirt. Best of all, this gives you the chance to really make your dark ties stand out.

Taupe

A color that falls between gray and brown, taupe is a great choice for the man who has a couple of the basic colored suits in his wardrobe and is looking for a color out of the ordinary that still maintains a professional appearance. Great for use year round, the taupe suit is a little less dressy than a charcoal suit but more likely to draw compliments because of it’s ability to compliment a man’s finer features.

Light Gray

A great spring and summer color that doesn’t draw attention to the wearer but instead signals a suave persona confident in his own skin, light gray is an excellent choice for any complexion. Live in a warmer climate? Then light gray is appropriate year round. The light gray suit pairs well with white, light blue, and almost any pale colored shirt, although if you are light complected you may want to go with a bolder hue.

White

The Classic color of summer. You don’t have to be Tom Wolfe to stay cool and look great. White compliments all but the lightest complexions, and even then the right shirt choice can remedy that situation. The key to wearing a white suit is confidence, especially in the United States where a suit in this color is hard to come by.

Where to find all of these fabric colors? Most stores only carry a small selection of the dark colors that they can regularly sell; the good news is that several online men’s fashion houses can make you a custom suit from one of thousands of fabrics.

Exploring Patterns in Men’s Suits & Sports Jackets

As one might expect, patterns are a bit more difficult than solid colors, and require more thought in their selection. As a general rule, patterns are less formal than solid colors, and so should be reserved for more relaxed occasions. The exception to this rule is the pinstripe, which in all but the most formal cases is on par with any other dark colored suit, and indeed forms an integral part of certain kinds of formalwear. The same is true of scale and constituent colors; large scale patterns are less formal than small scale ones, and bold, multicolored patterns are less formal than reserved, monochromatic ones.

Stripes
With that out of the way, the first pattern to consider is the stripe. Stripes on suits are always vertical, but come in a number of different styles. The first, foremost, and most classic is the pinstripe. A pinstriped suit, particularly a navy pinstriped suit, is an extremely traditional look, almost a uniform of sorts for the businessman. Pinstripes, as the name suggests, are very narrow though generally prominent stripes, most often in white, although gray is a not-uncommon choice, especially on dark gray or black suits. Occasionally one will find stripes in other colors – pastels were in vogue for a time – though these suits will quickly become dated once the fad has passed. Additionally, they limit the opportunities for wear, being both informal and somewhat more difficult to match with shirt and tie. A classic, white pinstripe never goes out of style.

These, and all stripes, help to make the wearer appear taller, as they draw the face upwards, and can make a heavyset man appear thinner, by breaking up and drawing attention away from the solid midsection. This is particularly true for thin, close set stripes like the pinstripe. There are also other stripes, including the thicker chalk stripe, as an option for the gentleman’s wardrobe. These stripes, which are generally set farther apart due to their greater width, are significantly less formal than the pinstripe, and while continuing to provide the appearance of increased height, are less appropriate for large men, as they can draw attention to ones girth.

Checks
Moving on from the stripe is the check. Checks come in a number of different styles, though the best known among them is probably the plaid. Plaid in American English is synonymous with tartan, the check patterns most closely associated with Scottish clans. In British English, particularly in Scotland, plaid refers to a thick tartan cloth used both as a blanket and thrown over the shoulder when wearing a kilt. What plaid is not synonymous with is check, which describes any fabric with crossing vertical and horizontal stripes. With the exception of a legitimate Scottish tartan worn as part of a formal occasion, checks are always less formal than solids or stripes.

Glen Check
While tartans are arguably the most familiar checks to most individuals, Glen check is likely the most common for suits. This check, often called Prince of Wales check, resembles a tartan, though it is primarily monochromatic. It utilizes bands of vertical and horizontal stripes which, when viewed as a unit, create a wider check effect in the fabric. Glen check has deep associations with the country and weekend wear – having been created for use by English nobles in Scotland who lacked a family tartan – though it is appropriate for most semi-formal occasions. It may be frowned upon in certain professions with a particularly strict dress code, but should be an acceptable if not welcome divergence for most men.

Windowpane
Another check option is windowpane, a much more bold option where the stripes forming the check are far apart, creating a checkerboard effect. Full windowpane suits are not frequently found anymore, though windowpane sports jackets may appear from time to time. A heavy dose of confidence and a certain amount of panache is required to carry off this kind of daring pattern.

Herringbone and Houndstooth
A more subtle option is the herringbone, a small arrow-shaped pattern most often found in heavy woven fabrics like tweed. Herringbone, like Glen check, is an appropriate pattern for most occasions, though because it usually adorns heavy fabrics, it is most often found on winter and country suits. Similar is houndstooth, which somewhat resembles a saw-blade, a pattern far more common on sports jackets than full suits.

Bird’s Eye and Nailhead
Somewhere between solids and stripes in formality is bird’s eye or nailhead, which examined closely has the appearance of tiny dots of a lighter color on a darker background. A bird’s eye suit generally appears as a solid somewhere in between the two colors, similar to the effect of an Oxford cloth shirt. Nail-head is appropriate in any occasion where stripes would be, and can be substituted for solids on all but the most formal of occasions.

There are a number of other patterns – bolder varieties of check, diagonals, argyle, paisley, Madras – though they are not to be found on suits, at least not on suits worn by a gentleman. These are things to be considered in the realm of shirts, ties, and socks, which will be taken up in future, along with the true pattern art-form: matching two or more.

Taking Care of your Custom Clothing (Wool)

Precaution should be taken when it comes time to clean your wool garments. To ensure a long life for your clothing, take the following advice to to heart.

Always
Use a professional dry cleaning service – When your clothes are dirty, use the services of a professional dry cleaner. We do not recommend dry cleaning

Understanding the Men’s Double Breasted Suit Jacket

Every coat that has a collar and lapels, whether sport coat, suit jacket, or overcoat, is either single-breasted or double-breasted. The single-breasted construction is much more common, and consists of buttons on one edge and button holes on the other, meeting in a vertical line over the navel. The double-breasted coat bears symmetrical sets of buttons on each side, with the left side folding over the right to be secured by one or two of them.

Single-breasted jackets are easy to find and look good on just about everyone. Whether blazer or suit jacket, it can me made with two or three buttons, wide or narrow lapels, and high or low gorge, according to the particular needs of one’s body. For every man, there is a single-breasted configuration that is guaranteed to look handsome. For this reason, the model as it has evolved over two-hundred years today holds the center-place of men’s style.

While the double-breasted coat demands a greater investment of time and effort to acquire and wear successfully, for many men the payoff is fantastic. Since every man will own some single-breasted jackets and suits, the question of single or double-breasted is really a question of double-breasted or not. First, I shall consider its drawbacks; for those who remain undeterred I shall then recount its glories.

Reasons to Pass on a Double Breasted Jacket
With an extra layer of fabric across the front and two rows of buttons, the double-breasted jacket is enough to drown a smaller man’s frame. Those of narrow torso and shoulders will find it covers almost their entire chest, barely allowing the shirt and tie a glimpse of daylight. Neither is it friendly to short men, as its bulk can diminish height. The double-breasted suit is also more formal than the single-breasted, and is therefore less versatile. It is anachronistic over anything other than a conservative dress shirt and neck tie. It looks ridiculous unbuttoned, and must therefore always stay closed, and this combined with its double-ply front can make it uncomfortable in the heat. Finally, double-breasted suits have waned in popularity over the past half-century, and it is therefore quite difficult to find one that fits correctly.

Reasons to Choose a Double Breasted Jacket
Nevertheless, for the man who can wear it, the double-breasted suit provides a rare opportunity to don a more stylish garment without attracting undue attention. To the casual observer, a double-breasted suit differs little from a single-breasted one, but on closer examination it yields an older, more elegant look. While it is indeed hard for most men to find one that looks really superb, when custom made its length, gorge height, button stance and lapel roll may each be selected to amplify a body’s virtues and distract from any shortcomings.

The double-breasted coat always sports peak lapels, and these contribute to its superior refinement. The original style has six buttons, with two to close. While this suits tall men well, shorter men do better with a four- or six-button configuration in which only the bottom one closes (the four-button double-breasted jacket is sometimes called the “Kent,” after its supposed inventor the Duke of Kent). The long, diagonal lines of lapels rolling to below the waist gives the impression of height and downplays width. Indeed, a well-cut double-breasted jacket minimizes girth on all portly men, especially if it has broad shoulders to drape from.

The Double Breasted Suit and Accessories
The accessory rules when wearing a double-breasted suit are very similar to single-breasted suits. When it comes to neckwear, either a bow tie or neck tie can be worn. However, the presence of no neckwear whatsoever is a definite style blunder, as that the double-breasted jacket’s formality by default demands something to adorn the neck. A neckties width has always been determined by the jacket’s lapel, although with the double breasted jacket this can be difficult when the are wider than four and a half inches. Average lapel widths range from 3.375 inches to 4.25 inches, with most double-breasted coat lapels leaning towards the later. A necktie within the width range of 4 inches is always a safe bet. More important than the width of the necktie however is the tie’s knot; with 70% of the tie hidden under a buttoned jacket, the knot takes center stage. Be sure to pay attention when you compress the knot to form a strong inverted “V”. With it’s proximity so close to your face, a blunder here will surely not go unnoticed. Finally, carefully choose a pocket handkerchief that conveys the message you wish to send. With little shirt and tie showing, the breast pocket handkerchief will have a stronger effect than when it is worn with a single-breasted jacket.

For men who are tall, broad-shouldered, or both, the double-breasted suit is a boon to the wardrobe. The double-breasted blazer, too, is a brilliant way to do causal with flair. While every man will own and wear single-breasted jackets, going double-breasted provides a special opportunity to broaden one’s sartorial horizons without straying from tradition.

Overcoats – Stylish Protection

When the rain and the snow fall, the wind blows, and the temperature drops, we don protective outer garments out of necessity. For the tailored man, the outer layer of choice will be the overcoat: a heavy, knee-length coat with a collar and lapels. In the colder months, the overcoat is an easy style move that distinguishes the well-dressed from the dressed up. However stately a man’s suit, if he walks in off the street with a ski parka covering it, the parka will define the first impression he makes and the suit will look discordant when it comes into the light. On the other hand, when you walk in draped in a knee-length coat with your scarf smartly knotted around your neck, you make a distinguished impression that will stick even if you take it off to reveal a polo shirt and blue jeans. Of all the garments we wear, the overcoat has perhaps changed the least over the past century, so that one of high quality is truly a long-term investment.

The single-breasted overcoat is the most common, and for good reason. On bright fall and winter days, it can be worn without a scarf, or with one just trimming the lapels, to display your shirt and tie. In the freezing wind and snow, double your scarf around your neck and turn the collar up for protection from the elements. Besides the single-breasted standard, overcoats may be double breasted, with or without a belt. The belted model is sometimes called a polo coat. Black, charcoal, and navy blue will each frame any shirt and tie you have on underneath.

Should you tire of wearing the same dark overcoat day after day, there are other options. Camel hair has long been a favorite of the New England aristocracy, thanks to its incomparable troika of warmth, durability, and softness. Given its pedigree, the natural beige color of pure camel hair is exempt from the traditional rules of color matching for formality’s sake, although all materials are equal before the judgment seat of aestheticism. Checks are traditional for fall and spring weight coats, and can be found on heavier ones as well; for the gentleman who enjoys mixing and matching patterns they offer an opportunity to add another ingredient to the stew. Subtle horizontal stripe patterns are as versatile as solids, and give one a dandified touch.

The particular coat one chooses should be first a question of insulation (you’ll need more the farther North you live), and second of personal style. If you are unsure where to start, you cannot go wrong with black; just find one that’s warm enough for you. The coats sold in stores are usually only available in even sizes, since their appearance is less sensitive to fit than that of a suit. Nonetheless, many men choose to order bespoke overcoats, since this allows for a perfect fit with accompanying superior insulation. If your body type is such that off-the-rack clothes never fit you, overcoats are likely no exception, and bespoke will be your best option

The Blazer Jacket – What to Wear with a Blazer Jacket

The Blazer Jacket – What to Wear with a Blazer

The beauty of the blazer is that it goes with almost anything. For the purpose of this discourse, by blazer I mean the classic single-breasted navy wool coat with brass buttons. Over gray flannel slacks, a white button-down oxford shirt and a striped tie, it makes a classic outfit that in the United States registers just shy of a suit on the formality scale. On the weekend, the same blazer over chinos and a polo shirt makes a very smart casual outfit. It would be impossible to list all of the handsome outfits a man can build around his navy blazer, but I will discuss some basic means of wearing it for work and leisure.

If you work in a business casual office, or not in any office at all, the blazer gives you a simple solution to the tricky problem of dressing respectably without appearing aloof. In a workplace dominated by polo shirts and khakis, the man who has the class to throw a blazer on over the ensemble looks distinctive without standing out. A dress shirt with a button-down collar and gray flannels are also worthy accompaniments for a blazer; add a tie to take it up a notch. A point collar shirt formalizes the ensemble a tad more, and here one should stop. Contrast collars really belong under a suit, and even if the formality of French cuffs were not an issue, having cuff-links next to brass sleeve buttons creates a discordant clash of shininess. For footwear, bluchers, loafers, and monkstraps are all good options.

The outfits described above are also smart choices for dinner in a nice restaurant or a morning religious service. In fact, the blazer will serve you well for most weekend activities, from taking in a play in most American cities to cheering on a girls’ softball team. It looks aristocratic and dignified over an ecru turtleneck and your trusty gray flannels; for a laid-back look in the summer wear it with off-white pants and a bright polo. While it is perfectly acceptable to wear a blazer with jeans, and indeed the combination can look very stylish, one must take care that pants and coat are not too close in color. This goes for any jacket and pants combination: if it’s not a suit, it shouldn’t look like one from a distance.

Brown suede dress shoes match the blazer in versatility, and anything that looks good with the latter will too with the former (although neither are typically worn by the English). Black shoes, other than oxfords and wingtips, are also fine compliments. Anytime you wear a blazer, you will do well to wear some sort of patterned socks, whether checked, striped, or argyle. When you forgo a tie, your socks provide a great opportunity to inject a little pizzazz into your look, especially if you wear a solid shirt.

Bringing our focus to trousers, gray flannels are always an irreproachable choice. On days that involve a lot of walking or running, you may be more comfortable in cotton chinos. These may be made with or without pleats; which you choose will be determined by your body type and personal style. Besides the traditional khaki, they can look good in such colors as stone, hunter green, and wine red. On cold days, you will appreciate the added warmth of cavalry twills, while in the summer heat linen pants are a cool and comfortable choice.

Moving on to dress shirts, as said above a button-down oxford is the classic. Besides solids, a broad variety of stripes and checks, including many that would look garish with a suit, mix well with a blazer. The latter’s dark, solid fabric looks good next to just about anything, and the shiny buttons amply counterweight bold patterns. For a more casual look, go with a long-sleeve polo shirt or a turtleneck, depending on the climate. The urbane silk tee-shirt and tight-fitting knit shirt tend to clash in their modernity with the blazer’s long heritage, and work better with a suit jacket.

In cooler weather, you way want to don a sweater under your jacket. If you’re going without a tie, a cable-knit or argyle crew-neck will add some life to the outfit. The V-neck worn over a tie may also be patterned or textured, but can be solid as well.

Finally, a few words on neckwear and accessories. The tie you wear with a blazer should be in keeping with its sporty dressiness. Woven silks in polka dots, bold stripes, and other simple patterns do this grandly, as do knits of silk or wool. The bow tie with white shirt and blue blazer looks sophisticated on the few men who know precisely how and when to wear it, but goofy on most everyone else. Beyond ties, any pocket square that harmonizes with the rest of the outfit adds a dash of style. For younger men, it will also ensure that a  blazer and white shirt don’t look like a prep school uniform. For belts, follow the old rule: match leather to leather, metal to metal. That means brown with brown shoes, although it can be a different shade of brown, and black with black. The buckle should be brass to coordinate with the buttons.

As you can see, the possibilities with a blazer really are endless. It is perhaps the best investment a man can make in his wardrobe, as it virtually doubles the choices he has each morning when getting dressed. It will serve nobly in a wide range of situations, and never go out of style.

FAQ – Do you sell Custom-made Tuxedos and Black Tie Clothing?

Of course we do? Have you seen our articles here

http://www.atailoredsuit.com/black-tie-formal-wear.html

http://www.atailoredsuit.com/mens-tuxedo-detail.html

FYI, all the pictures are tuxes we have made so you can get a sense of the quality. AS you see – we know how to make black tie as I stay in close contact with my friend Peter Marshall, author of the Black Tie Guide, the world’s best source of black tie info. So whatever you need – we can make it.

I wish I could be more accurate, but everything we make depends on two factors.

1. The Fabric cost

2. The amount of clothing the client buys – 1 set is regular priced, after a man looks to buy 2+ suits/black tie and 6+ shirts (or something like this) we can start to offer discounts of 10% to 20%.

1 Dinner Jacket & 2 Pair Trousers ($1,199 to $2,899)

2 Shirts ($149 to $299 each)

Vest ($329 to $699)

Bow Tie & Slim Tie ($79 to $149 each Custom Made)

Cummerbund ($139 $249 Custom Made)

$ 1,199.00

$ 2,899.00

$ 298.00

$ 598.00

$ 329.00

$ 699.00

$ 158.00

$ 298.00

$ 139.00

$ 249.00

$ 2,123.00

$ 4,743.00

Hopefully this comes out OK and gives you an idea of the range. FYI, I know we are not the least expensive. But for a man who wears his clothing often, you must understand that quality build is hard to come by and worth paying for.

Please email or call with ANY questions.

Best,

Antonio

Antonio Centeno

President, www.ATailoredSuit.com

Antonio@ATailoredSuit.com

1-800-340-7345 Ext-0