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Mens Pocket Squares – Folding, Fluting, and Finesse

September 20, 2011 by

The art of the dress handkerchief doesn’t end with selecting color, pattern, and fabric. Equally important is the way in which the pocket square is worn. A quality square can appear unbecoming if it is improperly handled and haphazardly stuffed into the pocket. That isn’t to say that the handkerchief must appear excessively arranged. Many of the finest examples have a casual, fluff-like appearance. All well worn pocket handkerchiefs, however, have one thing in common: the wearer knew what he wanted, arranged the handkerchief so, and then wore it as a subtle display of his fashion prowess.

Dress handkerchiefs can be arranged in an infinite variety of ways; for simplicity’s sake only the three basic types of folds are covered here: squared, fluted, and pointed.

The Square Fold
The square, sometimes called the Presidential or the TV fold, is the simplest and most understated of the folds. In modern times, it is also one of the least often seen. This fold is very similar to the standard square fold of the for-use handkerchief, except that it must be somewhat longer and narrower in order to fit into the pocket and remain visible. The precise length and width will depend on the pocket in question as well as the wearer’s preference, but it is generally in the area of 5? – 6? long and 3? – 3½” wide. If the handkerchief is made of linen or cotton, it should be lightly starched to provide a crisp look; if it is made of silk, it should not be starched, but should be folded so the hand-rolled edges are visible.

To create a square fold, one starts with the handkerchief completely unfolded on a flat surface. Begin by folding it in half so that it is now the same width but half the length. Be sure to crease the edge of the fold, and each fold to come. Next, fold in half again, so that it once again becomes a square, one-fourth of its original size. Finally, fold in half one more time, so it becomes half as wide as it is long. This is then inserted into the jacket pocket with between ½” and 1? of the handkerchief visible.

The finished product can be inserted in many different ways: tilted diagonally is a popular style. Such details are up to the wearer, and it is best to try several options at first to find ones preference.

The Flute or Puff
The next style is the flute, sometimes called the balloon or puff. This style is quite possibly the easiest to create, but the hardest to perfect. With the handkerchief open and on a flat surface, pinch it from the middle and lift it up. With the other hand, create a ring with the thumb and index finger around the top of the handkerchief, right below the pinch, and pull downwards, forming a column or “flute.” Fold so that about ? of the fabric is on the “flute” end, ? on the “point” end, and tuck into the pocket, so that 1? to 1½” remains visible. If necessary, adjust to fill the width of the pocket; should the flute be too tall or too short, re-flute, folding as needed to achieve the desired size.

Pointed Fold
The final style, the points, is the opposite of the flute, and is created exactly the same way. However, instead of folding so that the flute is the longer end, fold so that the points are the longer end, and then insert. Adjust as necessary to fill the width of the pocket, and to keep the points from clustering too tightly. This style may require a linen or cotton handkerchief to be starched somewhat more, in order for the points to remain upright. A more disarranged appearance can be achieved by shaking the handkerchief around after pinching the middle, just before creating the flute.

Finally remember that each fold has its own distinct personality, conveying different messages about the wearer to those he meets. The best approach to finding ones own preferred style is to try different variations and choose the one that best compliments your personal style.

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The Pocket Square: Colors and Patterns

September 20, 2011 by

Pocket squares come in a variety of colors and patterns. These are appropriate to most ensembles, and should be chosen to contrast with the shirt and tie while still being set off against the color of the jacket. What one should look for in a pocket square is coordinated contrast. That is to say, a combination of pattern and fabric that is different than the suit, shirt, and tie, but not so unlike as to clash.

Solid White Handkerchiefs – Linen and Cotton
Perhaps the most classic dress handkerchief is the solid white square, made of linen or cotton. Depending on the chosen fold, it may be lightly starched to provide body. The white square is acceptable for almost any ensemble but looks particularly good with dark, conservative suits where its crisp clean appearance is most pronounced.

Silk Handkerchiefs
Silk squares are what a gentleman is most likely to encounter in the department store; many have dozens of options on display. These handkerchiefs come in nearly every color and pattern imaginable, and offer far more opportunity to make a bold and distinctive statement. By the same token, these are also the handkerchiefs that produce much of the stress associated with wearing a square, as the variety of colors and patterns presents what can seem a daunting choice, though that need not be the case. One particular detail to note when choosing a silk square are hand-rolled edges; these are a sign of quality and attention to detail and should be present on a well-made square.

Remember when selecting the type of fabric for a dress handkerchief, the fabric of the jacket and tie should be considered. Mix silk squares with heavier tie fabrics, and more textured handkerchiefs with smooth ties is an excellent way to add contrast, while silk squares against a rough jacket like tweed is particularly distinctive. Wool suits, the most common option, are equally at home with linen or silk, as are silk ties – indeed, the variety of patterns available in silk may require a silk square for some ensembles.

Handkerchief Patterns
In choosing pattern for a square, one should look to the most brightly colored or patterned item in the ensemble. In most cases, this will be the tie, though should it be the shirt, or even in some cases the suit itself, that element should be given focus. One has nearly every color and pattern to choose from, though this will obviously be constrained by the examples available in ones wardrobe. With solid ensembles, patterns are particularly distinctive, and while solid squares may seem a safer choice for patterned ties, a contrasting patterned square provides a very elegant look.

Handkerchief Color
As for color, it’s best to determine the base color for whatever item is being matched then opt for a complementing color. Also, it is best not to match the square directly to a prominent color; instead, match it to a secondary color as an accent. As with everything else in classic style, the choice of color should also be mindful of the occasion; though it is only a few inches of visible material, a boldly colored square might well be out of place at a funeral or wedding.

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